Since I’m not yet ready to tackle (again) that Met Gala post, I figured I would just share a few tips on making your lipstick last. These are things I’ve picked up over my years as a makeup artist, from my industry peers, and recently in an article from renowned makeup artists Sarah Lucero and Fredrik Sambro. So a makeup pet peeve of mine, and I’m sure of a lot of you guys, is when my lipstick bleeds or rubs off way too soon after application. So let’s discuss this and address some ways to eradicate this annoying problem.
I’ve been ensured/corroborated by many in this field that a majority of the time it isn’t you and your fave, it is actually the particular lipstick you are using (sidenote: MAC Rebel seems to be a forever favorite right now, as seen above on the left). As we go throughout our day our lipstick is enduring much activity, causing the emollients to slip and slide around, more so if you are opting to wear a slick lip balm underneath your lipstick, which I know I am guilty of like 75% of the time, and I would like to think I know better. But it’s not just what you’re prepping your lips with, it’s what formula variation you are applying over your prep. Stambro is keen to point out that the more gloss or shine a lipstick contains, the more likely it is to bleed. Even if the feel of the product is buttery or slick, that’s a general indication that you’re working with a product that could potentially be a little troublesome in its wear and longevity.
One of the biggest factors besides product that effects the wear of your lipstick is (gasp) age, simply because fine lines in the lips allow for the product to seep in, same goes for severely dry and peeling lips. It is, in the long run, pretty essential to change up your lipsticks by season and/or year, if you notice issues with bleeding and longevity.
So what do you do to remedy these situations? Let’s start by talking about liner. I like to take my liner (my go to right now is the shade Tawny by Jordanna–as seen on Carli Bybel’s YouTube channel). I like to line my lips, giving them an initial shape, and then take my liner and fill in my lips completely. I do this for two main reasons; 1: to prime my lips with something other than a balm for a nice foundation and 2: to still give my lips color just in case I’m not quick to get to my touchups during the day. A new helpful hint I learned from Lucero, and thought would be rad to pass along, is to go back with liner in a similar shade as your lipstick to shape the lips up that much more. This further acts to lock in the lip color and seal it into the lip line, therefore preventing bleeding. If you don’t have a liner to match a certain lip color, then opt for one that is closest in hue to your natural lip color–that’s a safe bet for everyone!!
It’s also important to consider the brush you’re dying during application. Sure, it’s easier to slab on the color straight from the tube, but if you’re looking to achieve precision application then using a good brush is certainly the way to go. I like to use my lip lining brush (you know, the small narrow one, #’s differ by brand), but Lucero mentions she likes to use a concealer brush, so whatever works best for you, to each his/her own. Using a brush allows you to spread the lip color evenly, especially if you’re working with brighter colors. It is also recommended to start off light and slowly build up the color to where you want it.
Of course you’ll always want to blot to remove any excess product (you don’t want it hanging out on your teeth later!!). You can also use a firm tipped cotton swab to go back and clean up edges and so on. If you are looking for an ultimate hold then you can take an eyeshadow similar to your lip shade and lock in that color by dabbing on with your ring finger (similar to how you can set liquid eyeliner with eye shadow, applying a dry application over a wet one acts as a sort of seal).
Make sure you’re also drinking plenty of water to keep your lips, as well as the rest of you, nice and hydrated. I also personally recommend an exfoliating lip mask every now and then (usually a blend of Vaseline and granulated sugar…but we can discuss that in another post).
Here’s to perfect pouts and lasting kisses, xo.